Glycyrrhizin

グリチルリチン

Also known as: Licorice root extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate

Soothing / Barrier (鎮静) quasi-drug strong evidence

What It Does

Derived from licorice root, this powerful anti-inflammatory ingredient calms redness and irritation. A staple in Japanese sensitive skin formulas.

Glycyrrhizin (also called glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhizinic acid) is a compound derived from licorice root that has potent anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties. It is particularly effective at calming redness, irritation, and inflammation. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, a salt form of glycyrrhizin, is most commonly used in skincare for its improved solubility.

Glycyrrhizin works by inhibiting inflammatory pathways and reducing the production of inflammatory mediators. It is significantly more potent than hydrocortisone in some anti-inflammatory assays, yet it is gentle enough for sensitive skin. It also has some brightening effects and can help fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

In Japan, glycyrrhizin is approved as a quasi-drug active ingredient for anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic purposes. It is a staple in Japanese skincare for sensitive and irritated skin, appearing in products from drugstore brands like Curel to prestige lines like SK-II.

How It Works

Inhibits inflammatory pathways and reduces production of inflammatory mediators. More potent than hydrocortisone in some measures, yet gentle on skin.

The Japanese Context

Approved as quasi-drug anti-inflammatory active in Japan. Widely used across all price points in sensitive skin formulations.

Best For

all skinsensitive skin redness irritation inflammation sensitivity

How It's Used

Typical concentration: 0.1 to 1% (as dipotassium glycyrrhizate)

Ingredient Interactions

Works well with

centella asiatica allantoin niacinamide

Side Effects and Cautions

Very well tolerated topically. Note: oral consumption of large amounts of licorice can have hormonal effects, but topical use at typical concentrations is safe.