Kose Softymo Speedy vs Deep Cleansing Oil: Which One Should You Pick?

Kose’s Softymo line has been a staple in Japanese drugstore skincare for years, and two of its cleansing oils come up constantly in the same conversation: the Speedy and the Deep. They look similar, cost about the same, and both do a solid job removing makeup. But they’re formulated for different situations and different skin types, and picking the wrong one can mean irritation, breakouts, or just a product that doesn’t quite fit your routine.

Here’s how they compare.

Quick Verdict

If you want the short answer: the Kose Softymo Speedy Cleansing Oil is the safer pick for most people. It’s fragrance free, works on wet or dry skin, and removes everyday makeup fast without leaving a heavy residue. The Kose Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil is better suited for heavier makeup days and for skin that leans dry, but it contains orange peel oil, which can irritate sensitive skin. Choose based on your skin type and how much makeup you wear.

Key Differences at a Glance

	Speedy	Deep
Base oils	Mineral oil	Mineral oil + rice bran oil
Fragrance	None (fragrance free)	Orange peel oil (citrus scent)
Texture	Lightweight, watery	Richer, thicker
Use on wet skin	Yes	No (dry skin only)
Eyelash extensions	Safe	Safe
Best for	Sensitive, oily, combo skin	Dry skin, heavy makeup
Pore clearing focus	Moderate	Strong (targets blackheads)

Ingredients Breakdown

Both formulas were updated in February 2024. The new versions share a lot of the same botanical oils (olive, sesame, safflower, jojoba, shea butter, baobab seed oil, grape seed oil, squalane) but differ in a few key ways.

Speedy (2024 formula): Built on a mineral oil base with PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate as the primary emulsifier. This is what gives it that lightweight, almost watery feel. No fragrance, no essential oils. The ingredient list is straightforward: mineral oil does the heavy lifting for makeup removal, and the botanical oils (olive, jojoba, sesame, safflower, shea butter) provide conditioning. The 2024 reformulation added baobab seed oil, grape seed oil, and squalane.

Deep (2024 formula): Starts with mineral oil plus rice bran oil (oryza sativa bran oil), which gives it a richer texture and more slip. Uses sorbeth-30 tetraoleate as the emulsifier instead of PEG-8, which contributes to the thicker consistency. The big difference: it contains citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil. This gives the Deep version its characteristic citrus scent, but orange peel oil is a known skin irritant, especially for sensitive or reactive skin. It also contains BHT as an antioxidant preservative, which the Speedy version does not.

The rice bran oil in the Deep version is worth noting. It’s a traditional Japanese skincare ingredient with antioxidant properties, and it’s why the Deep formula feels more nourishing on the skin. If your skin tolerates citrus essential oils, the Deep version’s oil blend is arguably richer.

Best for Each Skin Type

Sensitive skin: Speedy, without question. No fragrance, no essential oils, and multiple Reddit users with sensitive skin call it their long term staple. The Deep version’s orange peel oil has caused irritation, peeling, and breakouts for some users with reactive skin.

Oily or combo skin: Speedy. Its lighter texture rinses clean without residue, and the ability to use it on wet hands makes it convenient for quick evening cleansing. Several community members pair it with a gentle foaming cleanser like Curel Sebum Care Foaming Wash for a thorough double cleanse.

Dry skin: Deep is the better fit here. The rice bran oil and thicker consistency leave skin feeling more hydrated after cleansing. Dry skin types are also less likely to be bothered by the orange peel oil.

Acne prone skin: This one depends. Speedy’s simpler formula and lack of fragrance make it the lower risk option. Some users have reported the Deep version clogging pores or triggering breakouts, though others with acne prone skin use it without issues. If you’re unsure, start with Speedy.

Makeup Removal: How They Perform

Both cleansing oils handle everyday makeup, sunscreen, and light foundation without trouble. Where they differ:

Speedy lives up to its name. It melts makeup on contact and emulsifies quickly when you add water. You can apply it to damp skin (say, right after splashing your face), which is a real convenience factor. Kose says no double cleansing is required, though most users still follow up with a water based cleanser just to be safe.

Deep takes a little more time to work. Its thicker texture means you’ll spend more time massaging it in, but that’s the point: the extra massage time helps it dissolve blackheads, sebum plugs, and pore congestion more effectively than the Speedy version. It requires dry hands and a dry face to apply, which makes it slightly less convenient. For heavy, waterproof makeup, the Deep version has a slight edge.

How to Use Each One

Speedy:

1. Pump 3 to 4 pumps onto your palm (hands can be wet or dry)
2. Massage over your face in gentle circular motions for about 30 seconds
3. Add water to emulsify (the oil turns milky white)
4. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water
5. Follow up with a water based cleanser if you want a deeper clean

Deep:

1. Make sure both your hands and face are completely dry
2. Pump 3 pumps onto your palm
3. Massage over your face for 60 seconds or more, focusing on areas with blackheads or stubborn makeup
4. Add water to emulsify
5. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water
6. Follow up with a water based cleanser (recommended, as the Deep version can leave more residue)

A Note on the 2024 Reformulation

Both the Speedy and Deep were reformulated in February 2024. The new versions (sometimes labeled “Ne” for Speedy and “Nd” for Deep in Japanese) added several botanical oils to both formulas, including baobab seed oil, grape seed oil, and squalane. The Speedy also updated its bottle size from 230ml to 240ml.

Most user feedback on the reformulated versions has been positive, with the general consensus being that the new formulas feel slightly more moisturizing while maintaining the same cleansing performance. A small number of users have reported the new Speedy formula causing closed comedones, so if you have clog prone skin, patch testing is a good idea.

How They Compare to Other Japanese Cleansing Oils

If neither the Speedy nor Deep feels right, the Japanese cleansing oil market has plenty of alternatives. Our best Japanese cleansing oil guide covers the full range. Here are some highlights:

DHC Deep Cleansing Oil is olive oil based and sits between the Speedy and Deep in terms of richness. It’s fragrance free and widely considered the “gateway” Japanese cleansing oil. Some users call the Softymo Speedy a budget alternative to DHC.

Shu Uemura Ultime8∞ Sublime Beauty Cleansing Oil is the luxury option. If you want the best possible cleansing oil experience and price isn’t a factor, this is what most experts point to. See our Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil review for the full breakdown.

FANCL Mild Cleansing Oil is preservative free and fragrance free, making it a strong choice for extremely sensitive skin. It’s pricier than the Softymo oils but gentler.

Attenir Skin Clear Cleanse Oil Aroma Type won @cosme’s grand prize and focuses on clearing dull, aged keratin. It has a subtle citrus herbal scent. Check out our Attenir cleansing oil review for more details.

Hada Labo Gokujyun Cleansing Oil is another fragrance free option that Reddit users recommend for those who experienced irritation with the Softymo Deep.

Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Cleansing Oil (Korean, not Japanese) comes up in the same conversations but tends to be considered too gentle for heavy makeup removal compared to the Softymo oils.

For a full comparison of the premium options, see our DHC vs Shu Uemura vs Attenir vs FANCL breakdown.

Our Recommendation

For most people, the Kose Softymo Speedy Cleansing Oil is the better starting point. It’s fragrance free, works on wet or dry skin, and handles everyday makeup and sunscreen removal without fuss. There’s a reason it shows up in “products I’ve repurchased for years” threads on r/AsianBeauty.

Pick the Kose Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil if your skin is on the drier side, you wear heavy or waterproof makeup regularly, and you want that extra pore clearing benefit. Just be aware of the orange peel oil if your skin tends to react to fragrance or essential oils.

Either way, both are under $10 for a full size bottle, making them one of the most affordable ways to try Japanese oil cleansing. For a step by step guide on building a double cleansing routine around either product, see our guide to double cleansing with Japanese products.

You can also explore the full Kose lineup, including their Sekkisei and Suncut lines, in our Kose brand guide.

FAQ

Is Kose Softymo Speedy or Deep better for sensitive skin?

Speedy is the clear winner for sensitive skin. It’s fragrance free with no essential oils, while the Deep version contains orange peel oil that can irritate reactive skin. Multiple community members with sensitive skin have reported long term success with the Speedy version.

Can you use Kose Softymo Speedy Cleansing Oil without double cleansing?

Kose markets the Speedy as not requiring a second cleanser, and some users do skip the follow up wash. However, most skincare communities recommend double cleansing (following up with a water based cleanser) to ensure no residue is left behind, especially if you’ve been wearing sunscreen or makeup.

Did Kose reformulate the Softymo cleansing oils?

Yes. Both the Speedy and Deep versions were reformulated in February 2024. The updated formulas added baobab seed oil, grape seed oil, and squalane. The core performance remains the same, but the new versions feel slightly more moisturizing. The Speedy bottle also went from 230ml to 240ml.

What is the difference between Kose Softymo Speedy, Deep, and White?

Speedy is lightweight and fragrance free, designed for quick makeup removal on wet or dry skin. Deep is richer with rice bran oil and orange peel oil, targeting pore congestion and heavy makeup. White (also reformulated in 2024) focuses on brightening with additional ingredients aimed at dull skin. All three share a similar botanical oil blend but differ in texture, scent, and target skin concerns.

Is Kose Softymo Speedy a good dupe for DHC Deep Cleansing Oil?

They serve a similar purpose but differ in formulation. DHC is olive oil based, while the Softymo Speedy is mineral oil based. Both are fragrance free and effective at everyday makeup removal. The Speedy is roughly half the price of DHC, making it a popular budget alternative, though the textures and skin feel are noticeably different. See our DHC vs Kose Softymo comparison for the full breakdown.