BHA
Also known as: Beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid
What It Does
An oil soluble acid that penetrates pores to clear congestion and reduce breakouts. Also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Beta hydroxy acid (BHA), almost always salicylic acid in skincare, is an oil-soluble chemical exfoliant derived from willow bark. Unlike AHAs which work on the skin surface, BHA can penetrate into pores because of its lipophilic (oil-loving) nature. This makes it particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
BHA exfoliates inside pores, dissolving sebum and debris that cause blackheads and breakouts. It also has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it doubly effective for acne. BHA is generally less irritating than AHAs and does not increase sun sensitivity as dramatically, though sunscreen is still essential.
Japanese skincare uses BHA more conservatively than Western products, often at concentrations around 0.5 to 2%. This gentler approach provides consistent exfoliation without over-drying or irritating skin. Brands like Obagi and some Rohto products feature BHA for acne-prone skin.
Penetrates into pores due to oil solubility. Dissolves sebum and dead cells, unclogs pores, and has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects.
The Japanese Context
Used at lower concentrations (0.5 to 2%) in Japanese products compared to Western formulations. Focus on consistent, gentle exfoliation.
Best For
How It's Used
Typical concentration: 0.5 to 2% in Japanese products
Ingredient Interactions
Side Effects and Cautions
Can cause dryness and irritation. Avoid if allergic to aspirin (similar structure). Use sunscreen.